Sacramento Garage Contractor: Building a Garage from Concrete to Framing

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAMaybe you’ve bought a new car that you want to shield from the elements. Or you’ve accumulated a collection of tools, special equipment, bikes, furniture, and other odds and ends that need storing. Perhaps you are hoping to add a workout room, music studio, or home office to your property.

Whatever your motives, building a garage is an excellent way to add storage space, functionality, and resale value to your home. A properly constructed garage can be more than a place to park your car – it can be a versatile space to work and create.

Whether you are considering building a garage for your home or renovating an old one, talk to a
A Sacramento garage contractor. Your contractor can help you design a garage that complements the style of your existing home and accommodates your needs. Depending on how you intend to use your garage, your contractor can help you determine what special features—such as heating, lighting, and electrical service—your garage should have, as well as its ideal size, shape, and location. With the guidance of an experienced contractor, you can erect a well-designed and constructed garage that adds both functionality and considerable value to your home for years to come.

To learn more about the process of building a garage, check out the video below!

To talk to a Sacramento garage contractor who can help you design and construct your new garage, please contact Russ Johnson Construction today.

SACRAMENTO CONTRACTOR VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:

TITLE: Building a Garage from Concrete to Framing

NARRATOR: About six years ago, I built this garage. It’s a standard 24’ x 24’, two nine-foot doors, one side door, window. I had gotten estimates from the local builders, who wanted 25 to 30,000 dollars for the same thing. It just made sense to do it myself.

It took me a couple weeks. I had it all framed. I started off by having a guy with a bucket loader come in, take out some trees, level out the area, remove bushes, and prep for the concrete work. The first thing they do is they dig down, install the footings where the wall is going to set.

I could have saved several thousand dollars and just had a four-inch-thick slab put down, but because I live in New England, I didn’t want to deal with problems with the cracking because of the frost, and when you have the four-foot wall put in with the floating floor, it pretty much goes away. They hold up for a long time, so the investment of the five thousand dollars for the four-foot wall, hopefully 25 to 30 years down the road will pay off. And that’s the first stage right there—the footings.

After the footings are dry in a few days, they’ll come in, form up, put the walls in. I have the openings for the two nine-foot doors, side door. After they dry for a few days, they come in, back fill and I’m ready to start. I have the screen laid out, I’m going to have the floor put in, and it takes a few days to dry. Standard four-inch-thick flooring I had put in. And that is it—I am ready to go now.

They just level it out, rough it out, the landscaping a little around it—you can always do that later.

I started out with my rear wall. You can start off on the side but I just pick one and go for it—standard 2’ x 4’ construction. I do se a double sill plate and a top plate. Those are the two that run horizontally. I use pressure-treated against the concrete. Hopefully we’ll take care of the bug issues if there’s any rot. Add plywood on the read wall—that one—the sides are up there.

Take’s me about a day—each photograph is about a day and time as we go along here. But I did almost everything myself. I have my son and my wife help me stand things up and carry but it’s not bad. The average person can do it.

This is the next day. I made the headers for the garage doors: standard 2’ x 10’, doubled-up, half-inch plywood in the center—pretty much the standard for around here. As I said, they’re nine-foot doors I’m going to install. And I plywood three of the sides. I do have pneumatic air gun—nail gun—for the plywood and the roof, and I have a stud gun, but I still do a lot of work with a hammer. I just don’t trust the stud gun; I’m not that good with it. But it’s great for the siding.

The next day I started with the trusses. I had some help with those. They’re kind of a pain to stand up. You put them in upside down and they flip up. But once they’re up there I mark the top sills where we wanted them, nailed them in, but braces across the top, measured, and straightened them out.

That’s the inside view. That’s a little later. I add plywood on the top for the roof, but that’s about what they look like. I also run some stringers down the center and up to the sides to help so they won’t twist during a snowstorm.

That’s the roof mostly on—half-inch plywood, half-inch plywood on the sides, also. That’s another reason I wanted to foundation to keep it off the ground, to keep out insects, water, stuff like that so it wouldn’t have rotting issues. I see a lot of them in the area where they just—they go to hell because of that.

Plywood on the front. Front facial board. I’m making some good progress at this point. This must have been the end of the first week. I’m moving right into the second week now.

And again, I have tar paper on the roof on this one, I’ve installed the side door, front has plywood on it. You can see the details of the concrete there—they’re pretty good in this picture.

I have my front doors all framed in there. Roof is on. Standard—what do they call those?—architectural shingles. Pretty easy to put on. I’m not a pro-roofer by far. I’ve done a few small projects but I just asked instructions and it came out pretty good.

To find out how his project ends, watch the video!


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